Seafood and the grill. A match made in heaven. The ultimate fast food. Everything from shrimp to fish steaks and whole fish welcome smoky tones from one of our summertime pleasures — grilling.
No matter the equipment or the fuel, most seafood takes to grilling. I like to make fish kebabs on the hibachi, soak cedar planks for grilling a slab of salmon, light the gas grill for quick-cooking thin fillets, slow-smoke fresh-caught trout, griddle-grill mussels or shrimp and hardwood-roast meaty fillets for a special-occasion dinner. I love large whole fish skewered on a rod and slowly cooked in the campfire embers. Hobo packs of whitefish chunks, tiny new potatoes and sweet onion slices channel a Wisconsin Door County fish boil.
Before I light the grill, I take time to figure out the acceptable seafood to purchase. In this country, everyone wants to eat the same fish. We’re overfishing the most popular species, and we ignore other delicious varieties. Branch out; try the mackerel, the porgy, the skate and the yellowtail rockfish. All delicious and far less expensive than wild-caught Alaskan halibut.
If you think I’m overzealous about knowing your fish sources, please read at least one of the articles in the Associated Press’ Pulitzer Prize-winning series about slavery in the seafood industry. You’ll never enjoy all-you-can-eat shrimp at a cheap buffet restaurant again.
That being said, there are plenty of wonderful fish (and shrimp) options available. Just be sure to shop at stores that have vetted their sources. I read signs and packages and look for Marine Stewardship Council Certifications or check my Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch app. Then I take their advice and adjust my cooking accordingly.
Here’s my starter guide for successful, flavorful seafood grilling all summer long:
Sustainable seafood can be pricey, so I add herbs and spices judiciously. I want the flavor of the protein to come through. Think salt and pepper, or a rub of herbs, a spritz of citrus or a dash of good quality oil. Then, boost flavors after grilling with a finishing sauce or a small pat of herbed butter or drizzle of aromatic olive oil and a shower of fresh herbs.
Sure, you can purchase bottled fish seasoning, but I have drawers filled with spices and a collection of salt from my travels, so I make my own, such as the all-purpose seafood rub that follows. Store it in a covered bottle, and use it on fish fillets for speedy weekday grilling.
For a zesty touch, try the spicy fish marinade that follows; I especially like it with skewered meaty fish.
For special-occasion grilling, I douse grilled fish and shrimp with a Mexican-style garlic, oil and dried-chili-pepper mopping sauce; the recipe follows. Alternatively, the lemon, ginger and chive finishing sauce that follows tastes terrific on most grilled fish. I especially like it on small, farmed Mediterranean sea bass or brook trout.
Good heat from hardwood charcoal or neutral-tasting gas is a must. Preheat a charcoal grill 30 minutes before cooking; plan on about 10 minutes for a gas grill. Most seafood cooks nicely when positioned directly over the heat source. Large whole fish or fish fillets weighing more than 3 pounds do better with more moderate heat, so I use the indirect method (not over the heat).
Add soaked wood chips to the coals or put them on a piece of foil set over the heat source if you like a smokier flavor. Always heat the grill grate thoroughly before you put the fish on it. Oil the fish — not the grate — to prevent sticking.
Forget the adage of 10 or 11 minutes per inch of thickness — the fish will be overcooked. I leave the fish at room temperature for 20 minutes or so before cooking, then set my timer for 8 minutes per inch. I can always add more time. The fish should almost flake when tested with the tip of a fork.
LEMON, GINGER AND CHIVE FINISHING SAUCE
Prep: 10 minutes
Makes: 3/4 cup
I drizzle this sauce over grilled salmon fillets, whole grilled fish and quickly grilled calamari steaks.
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lemon or lime juice, from 2 small lemons
2 cloves fresh garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger or refrigerated ginger puree
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons each: chopped fresh chives, cilantro (or parsley)
Mix oil, juice, garlic, ginger and salt in a small bowl. Stir in chives and cilantro just before using.
Nutrition information per tablespoon: 52 calories, 6 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 g carbohydrates, 0 g sugar, 0 g protein, 97 mg sodium, 0 g fiber
ALL-PURPOSE SEAFOOD RUB
Prep: 5 minutes
Makes: about 1/4 cup
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
2 tablespoons salt
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
1 teaspoon each: freshly ground black pepper, dried basil
1/4 teaspoon each: dried thyme, garlic powder
1/8 teaspoon sugar
Crush fennel seeds in a mortar with a pestle (or on a wooden cutting board with the bottom of a meat mallet or rolling pin). Transfer to a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Add remaining ingredients. Cover and shake well. Store in cool, dark place for up to 1 grilling season.
Nutrition information per tablespoon: 7 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 g carbohydrates, 0 g sugar, 0 g protein, 3,490 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
DRIED CHILI, OIL AND GARLIC MOPPING SAUCE
Prep: 15 minutes
Cook: 45 minutes
Makes: generous 1/2 cup
Use whichever dried chilies you can easily obtain — ancho are sweeter, while guajillo will be slightly spicier. If you have it, add a teaspoon or so of very finely cut dried chipotle chili for a nice kick. Use smoked paprika if you like smoke flavor. This is delicious served over grilled shrimp, mackerel and cod.
2 dried ancho chilies or 4 dried guajillo chilies, stemmed, seeded
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh garlic (10 to 12 cloves)
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 to 6 fresh sage leaves, slivered, about 1 tablespoon (or 1/2 teaspoon dried sage)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika, optional
2 tablespoons freshly chopped cilantro
1. Use sharp kitchen shears to cut dried chilies into very fine strips. You’ll have about 1/2 cup.
2. Put chilies, garlic and oil into a small saucepan. Heat over low, watching closely, until garlic just starts to turn golden, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in sage, salt and paprika if using. Cool to room temperature. Use at room temperature. Stir in cilantro just before using.
Nutrition information per tablespoon: 91 calories, 9 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 2 g carbohydrates, 0 g sugar, 0 g protein, 75 mg sodium, 1 g fiber